New York, New York

Berck talked me into joining him in New York for the weekend for his next-to-last free weekend. He flew up there on Thursday. He sent me an e-mail when he landed saying he thought he’d left his lights on in his car, and could I please go buy some jumper cables and remove the battery from Arthur, find his car (in the overflow lot), and deposit them in his trunk. Instead, I called the parking company and was given a direct number to call for emergency vehicle assistance at no charge.

It ends up being more than a weekend to run up to New York, because it takes a whole bloody day to get from Colorado Springs to Sydney’s apartment. I stopped by work on Friday morning to feed and take a shower (our hot water heater pilot light went out again). I left work at 9 to drive to Denver. I’d just gotten Delta benefits that morning, so I wanted to allow extra time in case there were any snags there and for the unknown amount of time it would take to get through security. The overflow lot was closed, so I don’t know how I would have dropped off the jumper cables and battery. I checked into the Delta kiosk with absolutely no problem whatsoever. There was no line for security, so I was at the gate stupid early (an hour and a half, which is what you’ll end up with if you do what they say and get to the airport two hours ahead of time).

The flight was late getting in and later leaving. There was apparently a change of aircraft, and the seating map the gate agent was using had more rows than the plane had. They made an announcement that everyone should just find an empty seat and sit in it. It was a very full flight, and I was lucky to get on it at all. The next option was to fly to Newark and figure out how to take the trains over to New York City. Finally, they announced that they needed a volunteer to leave his window or aisle seat and take a middle seat so that a father and his very young son could sit together. “There is no reward; we’re just not going anywhere until someone does.” Someone volunteered immediately. The English girl sitting next to me had to sit apart from her boyfriend. She made do by turning the volume on the armrest all the way up and positioning it next to her ear so she could listen to the rock station without buying headphones. I got to listen to the rock station too, then, because it was next to my ear as well. Fortunately, my headphones pretty much drowned it out so I could watch the movie (August Rush) and an episode of Friday Night Lights. I was next to the window, so I also got to see the snow covered fields of the Mid-West, Chicago, Lake Michigan, and Lake Erie. We held forever over JFK, and then taxied even longer. Then I had to take the Air Train to the A line and then to Sydney’s apartment. I found it without any problem. I got there about 8. That’s a long dang day.

But it was just starting. Berck, his sister Sydney, and I took the Subway into Manhattan and met his brother Kelsey and Liz at an Ethiopian restaurant in the West Village. Only Berck and I had eaten Ethiopian before, so we ordered a bunch of stuff and explained how to eat it. The place didn’t serve alcohol anymore, but they had a bottle opening fee. So Kelsey and Sydney ran out and bought a bottle of wine for Liz, a bottle opener, and a 6 pack of Newcastle and 7 big bottles of Yuengling (which Kelsey managed to convinced the grocery store clerk he could get a case discount on and get the 7th for free). We still had a couple of the big bottles left when the restaurant was closing, so we went to the pub next door. Sydney bought a round of beers, and Liz still had her half full wine glass that she’d brought from next door, which, in her defense, she hadn’t had time to finish because they took half an hour to open her bottle. When we’d drained our glasses, Kelsey exchanged the empty wine glass for a full one at the bar and surreptitiously filled all our pint glasses with another of the Yuenglings. When the last of our beer was gone and our never emptying glasses finally emptied, we called it a night and went our separate ways, Kelsey and Liz to Washington Heights, and us to Bedford-Sty. We got home at 2. Berck and I stayed up another hour or so talking.

We slept in on the air mattress in the living room until 11 and the sun was in our eyes. I was amazed that I felt no effect from the night before and then remembered that we were at sea level, which meant Berck and I could drink most people under the table, what with all of our extra red blood cells with nothing to do but deliver alcohol molecules to the liver. We took showers, got dressed, put away the bed, and Berck decided it was time to wake up Sydney. Another half hour later, he asked if we should leave without her. She asked for 20 minutes, and Berck asked if we’d just be another 20 minutes from our goal and Sydneyless if we waited. She told us to go ahead without her.

We took the Subway to the Lower East Side and found Russ and Daughters, which has just about any kind of smoked or canned fish you’d want. The place is tiny, but it was packed. We took a number and waited our turn, me inside, Berck outside. I got a bialy with whitefish salad. Berck got an onion bagel with cream cheese and then had to choose one of the several different types of salmon. He decided on Scottish smoked salmon, which tasted like it was cured over peat. He was very happy with his breakfast.

Next it was on to the MOMA. It was already 1, and the museum closed at 5. We bought our tickets ($20 a piece, except Berck used his expired student ID) and headed up to the top. An hour and a half later we’d finished the top floor and still had 4 to go. Somehow we managed to cover it all and were tired at the end. It’s a very good collection. We saw Starry Night and a huge Magritte and a bunch of other things.

Kelsey and Liz really wanted to show us their apartment, so Berck and I took the Subway north all the way as far as it would go that weekend to 169th St. We stopped on the way at Zabar’s, the best deli in the world. Berck was overwhelmed by the selection of cheeses but settled on some Nevat and selected a small stick of pepper-encrusted Italian salami. We also got some fresh Jewish rye bread that had just arrived from the bakery. I asked for some smoked bluefish for Michele, but they told me that the current stuff available was too gamy for their likes, so they weren’t carrying any currently. We stopped by a liquor store to get a bottle of chianti for Liz and some dark Czech beer for us. We ended up just drinking the wine. Kelsey didn’t want to snack much to save room for the pizza we planned on eating that night. We arranged to meet Syd back down in the West Village and all headed down on the A train.

No. 28 Carmine serves pizza brick oven Italian style. We had to wait forever for a table. It was cold, so we all crammed into the rickety little foyer built out onto the sidewalk with another party waiting for a table. Finally, they gave us a table in the room where the cook was baking the pizzas, so it was very hot. But it was all worth it. The pizza was very authentic. The whole staff spoke in thick Italian accents. Even most of the clientele spoke English as a second language. We polished off a pizza margarita and one with sausage that Americans call pepperoni when a pan of crust covered in arugula and prosciutto arrived at the table next to ours. Kelsey was admiring it when our neighbor invited him to try a piece, because, as he said in thickly accented English, “It is too much for me.” Kelsey decided we should get one of those, which arrived soon and we also polished off quickly. Delicious. Berck declared it was possibly the best Italian pizza he’d had, even in Italy.

I announced that I expected gelato afterward, so Berck asked the waiter with the glasses if there were any around. In fact, there are tons of gelato places in general vicinity, but he gave us directions to one in particular and told us to tell them he sent us. After coughing up just enough cash among all of us to cover the bill (no one in NYC takes credit cards, it seems), we followed his instructions and entered a little gelato store a couple blocks down and around the corner. The guy behind the counter started handing out samples willy nilly, even to Berck and me, who already knew what we wanted. Right then who should walk in and step behind the counter than the guy whose pizza Kelsey had sampled! Boy, were we surprised to see each other. He told us that he had thought about giving us his business card but hadn’t, but then we showed up in his shop anyway. We bought lots of gelati with the cash Kelsey had run and gotten in the meantime and sat on the shop’s stools to enjoy it. It was wonderful gelato. I had caramel creme, stracciatella, and peanut butter in an “Americano” waffle cone. It was the best gelato I’ve had in this country. I should have made a note of what it was called and where it was. Anybody else remember?

We stayed there until they closed at midnight and then decided to call it a night, since we had to go to opposite ends of the city to sleep. We got home early that night. 1 am.

Next: Sunday in the City

New York!

I decided to spend one of my last free weekends in New York. It’s a long way away. I left my apartment at 9am on Thursday morning and got to the law school at 7:30pm. I’m not looking forward to regularly giving up a day to get to and from work.

I like New York much better when it’s not hot. In general, I like New York. I’m not sure why. I feel like I should hate it, and perhaps I’ll learn to, but for now, I’m too amused.

On the subway back to Brooklyn after getting a beer with Kelsey, I remembered how many people you get a chance to see on a daily basis in New York. Quite a bit more than the half-dozen I’m likely to interact with in a less urban setting.

A group of people got on, and had a long discussion about which of them should sit down in the two spots on the seat next to me. Only one of them eventually sat down, and the others kept standing. A fellow behind them politely asked if any of them were going to sit there, and they said no. Uncannily polite for the Subway–you don’t ask, you just sit. It was obvious the guy was a New Yorker; out of the millions, there’s bound to be a few polite ones. After a little while he asked me if the C train stopped at Fulton. Since it goes down Fulton for a long way, there’s a dozen stops “at Fulton”, so I wasn’t sure what he meant. I told him I didn’t know, but pulled out my map and handed it to him. He laughed and consulted it. He asked if I were a New Yorker, and seemed surprised that I wasn’t, but allowed how that explained why I had a subway map in my pocket.

I manage to not stand out as a tourist, but I don’t look like a New Yorker. I certainly don’t dress correctly. BDU’s and a flannel shirt is just not acceptable attire. New Yorkers seem to put quite a bit of effort into how they dress. They wear double-breasted coats, not gore-tex shells.

Tourists, on the other hand… I walked down 42nd street today and heard two tourists talking to each other about catching a cab to Times Square, since they weren’t having any luck finding it. They were standing at the corner 42nd and Broadway. Apparently the billion watts of lights weren’t enough for them to catch on.

Sweatshirts. Tourists wear sweatshirts. I don’t think anyone else here does. Course, they also wear gore-tex shells and stand on street corners with streetwise maps, something I do often.

Seattle

Last weekend we took a jaunt to the Seattle area. My sister Stephanie and her family just moved up there right after Christmas. They live on the Kitsap Peninsula, just south of Bremerton and across the Puget Sound from Seattle. Nathan carpools with one of us coworkers every day to work driving an hour south across the Tacoma Narrows Bridge and up to Seattle. The other option is the ferry, but it takes a long time, and you have to be there really early to get a space on it.

We had been planning to leave on a six p.m flight, but Berck looked at the loads that afternoon, and there weren’t very many empty seats and a lot of non-revs like us registered to get on it. We’re at the very bottom of the totem pole, so it seemed like we’d be taking the late flight. Berck called me a little after three to say that, when he went to change our reservations, the flight had cleared up substantially. “Let’s go!” I said, so he threw together the rest of his packing and ran out the door.

Then he called me from I-25 to say traffic was completely stopped. “If it’s like this all the way to Denver,” he said, “we’re never gonna make it.” I can see I-25 from my desk, and it was flowing freely. I walked him to the back roads, and Berck picked me up about half an hour later than we’d planned, but with enough time if we used a new trick.

Security was backed up a long way, but Berck went to the crew line, flashed his crew badge, and told the TSA agent, “She’s with me.” That got us straight to the ID checker and onto the magnetometers. Woohoo! We got to the gate with plenty of time for me to go to the bathroom one more time.

Now we just had to wait and see if there was actually enough room on the flight for us. They started boarding the flight before calling up all the standbys to give them seat assignments–never a good sign. Then they called up a bunch of other standbys but not us. Uh oh. But finally, they called “Nachzen, party of two,” and we were set. I called Nathan as we walked down the jetway to tell him he wouldn’t have to wait for the late flight to pick us up from SeaTac. Unfortunately, we couldn’t sit together. Berck was lucky and got an exit row seat by the window, but I was stuck between two big guys–not much elbow room. I got some reading done and enjoyed watching the in-filight TV with my new headphones, though.

It was raining when we arrived, of course. Nathan drove us to his house, where the boys had waited up to see us. We all had some of the wonderful sourdough bread Berck had baked and brought (TSA sent his bag holding the huge loaf through the X-ray machine twice).

Berck and I woke up at six thirty in the morning, half an hour later than we usually get up. The boys were up soon after, and once everyone was dressed, we all drove to a local little airport to eat at the diner overlooking the runway. Ian insisted on sitting next to me and then got syrup on my pants. I don’t mind.

We noticed some cars racing around the closed off old runway, so we got in the car and drove over to find the track. They let us in at the gate as long as we signed a waiver saying we wouldn’t sue anyone. There was just a driving school going on sponsored by the Alfa Romero club, though there were only three Alfas there. There were also two Vipers, so Nathan was very excited about that. He’s wanted a Viper for as long as I’ve known him, and he’s agreed to buy one from a friend of his as soon as the guy gets back from Hawaii.

We took the long, scenic way home, and the boys conked out in their car seats. They woke up when we brought them in, though. Elliott was put to bed with instructions to finish his nap, but we could hear him running around in his room and singing. But as long as he didn’t open the door it counted, apparently.

Nathan was still recovering from the cold/flu he’d gotten from Dad that Dad might have gotten from us, and he didn’t feel like doing much of anything, so we just hung around the house for the rest of the day. Steph made us excellent grilled cheese sandwiches from the rest of Berck’s bread. We also had orange smiles that Ian gushed over with each bite. “These are soooo delicious!”

The boys, Nathan, Berck, and I built endless towers with the cool cardboard blocks my mom got, which Elliott knocked down accidentally and Ian on purpose. Ian and I made a domino row with all the blocks all over the living room while Stephanie tried, sometimes in vain, to keep Elliott from running into them. After watching them all tumble over in order, Ian jumped up and down and screamed, “Do it again!”

We got ready in time to catch the ferry to Seattle to go eat supper. The boys fell asleep again on the short trip, but when we got to the ferry there were already too many cars in line for us to get on. We decided to get some coffee at the little espresso shack set up just for ferry customers and wait the hour until the next ferry left, especially since the boys needed their nap and were dead asleep in the back of the car still. But in the time it took Nathan to buy a ticket and pull up to the espresso shack, they’d put up a closed sign. Stephanie said we should go up and ask them if we could just get some water, because Berck had just swallowed a Sudafed. The girl inside slid open the window and said she hadn’t started cleaning up yet if we wanted something. A bunch of other people showed up with coffee cups in the hour we were waiting in line. I wonder if they get bigger tips if they keep the closed sign up and just offer to make coffee because they “hadn’t cleaned up yet.”

The boys woke up before we got on the ferry. The ferry made a stop at an island on the way to Seattle to drop off some cars and pick up some more. I watched the process leaning over the upper deck and was amazed at how inefficient it was. But we finally got to the other side of the sound and found the Thai place where we’d been promised “crack chicken.” The chicken was indeed amazing. In fact, everything there was delicious, especially the fried squash, strips of what tasted like butternut, battered and deep fried and served with a soy sauce.

We took the long way home. You only have to pay for a car coming east on the ferry, but you have to pay for all of its passengers as well on the way back. And you have to pay to cross the Tacoma Narrows Bridge going east but not west. So if you take the ferry over to Seattle and the bridge back, you’re spending the least amount of money.

The next morning we got up and got breakfast in Gig Harbor at a little cafe. They had French toast made from baguette slices and smothered in praline sauce. I get a toothache just remembering it. Berck ordered the breakfast burrito, which he described as “something they’d heard of and thought they’d try to recreate.” That’s what he gets for ordering breakfast burritos at a cafe. Apparently, good Mexican food is hard to come by in the Northwest, while Asian food is the best outside of Asia itself.

Stephanie took the boys to the bathroom before we left. Elliott came out after achieving success and announced to a couple eating nearby, “Boo boo.”

Next it was onto the air museum. There are lots of pictures of plane parts in the gallery and not pictures of little boys looking at planes because Berck had the camera. The boys loved the place, especially the interactive things like being able to climb into a Blackbird cockpit. Ian has announced that, when he grows up, he wants to be a pilot like Uncle Berck.

We had plenty of time to exhaust the museum before it was time to go to the airport. The boys were exhausted too and conked out in the few minutes it took to drive SeaTec. Berck and I had plenty of time to get to our gate, cutting in front of everyone with his crew badge again through security. We got a sandwich to split and a couple of soft drinks then studied for his upcoming exam until it was time to board. We got to sit next to each other this time and spent the flight watching a movie. We even got home before my bedtime.

Mexican Gyros!

Todd’s school is right down the street, so he came by and we walked around this area of Mesa, which I’ve come to call Little Mexico. We walked into the sleaziest, cheapest looking taqueria on the block. The two proprietors were the only people in there. There was some meat product rotating on an autodoner in the window. Todd ordered a burrito and two carne asada tacos. The woman at the register nodded, but continued playing with receipts and money. The guy in an apron walked off, but returned a few moments later and returned to stand at the counter. I could only read about half the menu since they’d propped various things in front of it. “What is best?” I asked. The guy shrugged and pointed at the woman counting. I repeated the question, and she said, “Al Pastor,” and returned to her rummaging. After about 5 minutes of Todd and I standing there, Todd ordered again. “Dos tacos al pastor, y dos tacos carne asada,” he tried. “Si, si!” and the guy started carving at the meat product. The woman at the register muttered, and continued playing with receipts and $1 bills. I ordered dos tacos al pastor as well, and asked for a Coca. I didn’t see any in the glass case, but thought maybe I’d try. He produced a can of Diet Coke. I asked for aqua, he shrugged and pointed in the general vicinity of a doorway into the neighboring establishment, an ice cream shop. Two people, who appeared to be customers, sat at a table. No one was in there. I stood there for awhile, the guy in the apron walked in, walked around, and walked back. I gave up and sat down with Todd and ate two amazing tacos al pastor, with some great salsa and fresh taco makings at a little salad bar.

After that, we wandered into the Mexican grocery store, which is just as Mexican as the Chinese place was next to the other hotel. I bought a Boing! drink, which was like orange soda, but not carbonated. Todd got some weird looking Mexican candy (even if the Mexicans aren’t as advanced in candy technology as the Asians) and an Arizona Sweet Tea. We perused a music store, with Todd finally purchasing a couple of mandolin strings. Then we went for a short, aimless drive with the top down because the weather was so amazingly nice. We came back, picked up Todd’s car, and drove into Phoenix and ate Greek gyros with his girlfriend. Actually, I got a souvlaki pita, I think their real gyros were probably better, but it was good. The Greek place was showing scantily clad Arab women in Arabic music videos on some strange TV channel, with phone numbers to call in and vote for every middle eastern country. Todd and I decided the whole thing was very strange, and Todd said he was waiting for a bearded guy to jump in the screen and blow them up for being indecently exposed.

Be sure to wear some flowers in your hair

In the morning we got up and out in time to make it to a restaurant that serves Dim Sum on Sunday mornings as they opened. I’ve never had Dim Sum, and I can now say that I love it. Chinese women circled the restaurant carrying trays of little covered baskets with food inside. They would tell us what delicacies they held, but of course we couldn’t understand what they were saying in their heavily accented English. So they would open up a basket to display their wares, and we would guess whether it would be tasty or not. We ate all sorts of dumplings some dinner rolls that actually were stuffed with minced meat, a green vegetable that looked like a weed and tasted like grass but came with a yummy thick, sticky brown sauce to dip it in, squares of slightly sweet paste with small chunks of meat in it, a plate overflowing with calamari, green beans in a delicious sauce, and other things. I wanted to try to the chicken feet, but I would have had to have eaten the whole basket myself. We ate and ate and then were sorry we couldn’t sample some things because we already had too much on the table. Fortunately, almost everything came in threes, so there was one for each of us. There was also hot sauce and some mustard with amazing sinus clearing properties. Forks were nowhere to be seen, but we managed just fine except for the slippery round green vegetable that I just ate with my fingers.

Afterward, after having only a pot of tea to share to drink, we stopped at a gas station to fill up Dave’s car with insanely expensive Californian gas and grab some Cokes. Then it was on to “SF” with the top down to the SFMOMA. It has a very nice collection. Some of my favorites were a portrait of Truman Capote by Irving Penn, a guy who creates huge backlit photos of staged scenes, basically carefully creating a realistic painting but without the paint, and a Japanese lady who creates “class photos” where she plays all of the students and the teacher by shooting herself in different hairdos, uniform arrangements, and expressions. There was also a good assemblage of canonical modern art from Matisse to O’Keeffe to Rothko to Warhol, even one of Duchamp’s many Fountains. As usual, I had to wait for Berck to finish, so I deposited myself in front of one of the video displays, an interesting one showing adolescents outside a club, instructed to be in front of a camera for several minutes at a time, a study in the uneasiness of the space between childhood and adulthood.

When we had exhausted the exhibits, we went to the Exploratorium, a huge science museum packed with kids mashing the buttons on all of the interactive displays. Still, there were more exhibits than kids, so there was always something interesting to see. My favorite was the heart beating in the fertilized chicken egg. I’ll have to dig out a magnifying glass next time I bake.

We had to leave before too long to make it to our last restaurant, the famous San Tung 2. (I don’t think #1 exists.) I’d discovered this place on a Google search for “crack chicken.” The wet dry-fried chicken wings were indeed good, think General Tso’s wings, but weren’t what I’d call addictive. The hot and sour soup was crammed with solids including “tree fungus” that tasted good but was the consistency of what the fungus you see on trees is what you’d imagine is like. The noodles with black bean sauce were only good after adding soy and hot sauce. But the fried dumplings… those were delicious, even if they didn’t give us any dumpling sauce. Again we were not offered forks but were given a pot of tea.

We ate hurriedly and left to make sure we got to the airport in plenty of time. Security didn’t take any time at all, and then we checked the monitors. Our plane was an hour and a half late arriving. We had a couple beers and found a quiet corner of the airport with a power outlet to finish watching the movie we’d started on the way in, then began another. We didn’t get off the ground until 9. We finally got home at 1:30 am. I drank a lot of tea the next day at work to stay awake. Last night we went to bed at 8. I didn’t wake up until my alarm went off at 7.

There are pictures, but Berck is controlling them. So you’ll have to ask him if you want to see any.