The long haul

Lake Arrowhead, CA — Dallas, TX

Well, we made it. To Dallas anyway.

We left Lake Arrowhead yesterday at about 11 am PST and got here today at 3 pm CST. We stopped in Thousand Palms, CA for our last In-N-Out burgers, maybe forever. Berck drove till right before we hit Phoenix about 5 pm MST. Then I drove through rush hour traffic, on past firefighters putting out a car totally consumed by flames, into the night and the rain. We had decided to continue driving through the night because it had gotten unbearably hot in the desert during the day. We needn’t have worried; rain followed us from mid Arizona through Dallas (it’s finally stopped raining, just overcast now). But camping in the dark in a torrent was out of the question, so on we pressed. We stopped to fill up and change drivers. Berck put Rain-X on the windshield and decided to switch the wiper springs, since the driver’s side one kept skipping up and down the glass. Unfortunately, the spring launched a vital part into the dark, and we spent an hour searching for it in vain. Fortunately, the Rain-X worked wonderfully, since now we only had one windshield wiper. I read Gogol out loud to Berck until the road got too bumpy, then slept soundly till we hit El Paso and had to stop for gas again. Then I drove, consuming an entire package of sunflower seeds by the time I finally gave up sometime after dawn at a truck stop west of Abilene. I propped up my head with Berck’s sleeping bag stuff bag and was asleep in seconds.

Three hours later, Berck went inside the truck stop and came back with a Starbucks Frappuccino (which he downed immediately), a Dr Pepper, and a gigantic Snickers bar. I kept sleeping till he got gas again outside of Ft. Worth.

I keep asking Berck if it’s alright to go to sleep. I feel very much like my head is about to fall off.

We’re heading for Mobile in the morning, though we may have to stop in Tyler (and the nearest Advanced Auto) to get a new alternator. Berck just got his replaced in December, but this one’s now got a bad (and very noisy) bearing. Plus the car has developed a new rattle. I keep telling Berck it’s the missing piece of the wiper blade assembly, but he doesn’t believe me. Hopefully, a new wiper part and header will be waiting for us in Mobile. Until then, the car sounds pitifully loud.

Yosemite

Yosemite National Park, CA — Lake Arrowhead, CA

We camped last night in Yosemite, not bothering to pitch the tent because the weather was so nice. We gazed at the stars and the jetliners racing toward San Francisco.

We had to take all the food out of the car and put it in a bear locker at our campsite. Inside we got a free gift…a Coleman stove! We don’t have any propane, and the stove is fairly bulky, but it just barely fits in the trunk.

We drove through Yosemite Valley this morning. Wow! I didn’t know anything about Yosemite except that that’s where El Capitan is. Well, there’s a dozen more cliff faces nearly as impressive…and a couple of amazingly tall waterfalls. Here’s a picture with El Capitan on the left, Half Dome in the back, and Bridal Veil Falls on the right.

Now we’re heading for Lake Arrowhead to spend the night. We’ll head out in the morning for Dallas (or somewhere halfway between, more likely).

San Francisco

San Francisco, CA

On Monday, we took the commuter train from San Jose into San Francisco. The ride is about an hour and a half, twice the time it would take driving, but you don’t have to drive in traffic, you don’t have to park, etc. Unfortunately, you do have to walk quite a ways to the part of San Francisco that people visit.

We squeezed onto a cable car that took us to Chinatown, then found the grittiest Chinese restaurant we could. It was about ten feet wide and thirty feet deep. The downstairs was all kitchen (where you could see the cooks carefully slicing raw fish and chicken), which you had to walk through to get to the stairs. I don’t know how many floors up the dining rooms go; at four p.m. only the second story was open, with a chain across the staircase leading even higher. A sign posted said, “COKE, 7UP, PEPSI, FOOD OK. NO MILK, NO COFFEE, NO BS, NO JIVE, NO ‘FORTUNE COOKIE.'” A man with a mustache plopped a teapot and two cups down in front of us. Then he yelled at the waitress to take our order, but she never did, so he took it himself. We had spring rolls, Mongolian beef, and a plate nearly overflowing with chow mien noodles and duck. Everything was great, nothing fancy, but good food.

We took the cable car back to where we had caught it and walked over to the museum of modern art, but it was closing in less than an hour. So we took the cable car all the way to Fisherman’s Wharf. Our driver was a Sikh wearing a blue turban to complement his brown uniform. We walked around the area for a while, had a couple of brews at a bar that advertized 85 beers on tap, bought a pint of clam chowder and a round of sourdough from a sidewalk stand, and ate them on the curb. Then we wandered back to the cable car.

While we were waiting to get on, we noticed a man shouting advice to someone walking away from him, “…it’s five dollars and really fills you up…a great place to eat!” He was carrying a big knife. He approached the line of cable car passengers muttering loudly but a little slurred, “I had a string break earlier…took me an hour to take it off.” He plopped a couple of milk crates down in front of us and sat down on one with a small, silver guitar. His muttering became even louder when he began speaking into a mike, “…and then it took me another half hour to put one on.” He strummed a wildly out of tune chord, then tightened the high G way past G until the string snapped. “Aw, man, what is with me today? I apologize for the short show, folks.”

By then we had hopped on the cable car, in the best seats, up front in the open air. The Sikh was our driver again. As we passed Chinatown, two Canadian girls hopped off as we passed slowly through the intersection. “Please!” shouted the Sikh in a thick accent, “If you want to get off, just ask me! I will stop the cable car, and then you get off!”

“We’re sorry!” shouted back the Canadian girls, clearly contrite.

“I do not want to be taking anyone to the hospital!” the Sikh continued. Everyone on the cable car laughed. “I am serious!!” he shouted even louder.

We rode the cable car back to the other end and caught a bus the several blocks to the train station.

Bruise

San Jose, CA

Stephen has a cat named Oxy. Oxy likes to attack feet beneath covers when you’re sleeping. She did this morning, waking me up. “Oh, that’s just the cat,” I thought. Next she moved onto Berck’s feet. He groaned and rolled over on our sleeping pads stretched out on the floor.

Next, Oxy began tearing around the room in as big a circle she could run, making bird-like noises. Unfortunately, on one of these circuits, she made a U-turn on my face, sticking a foot in my left eye socket. Fortunately, Stephen had recently clipped her claws. It still made a nice gash beneath my eye. I washed it out as best I could, then groped in the freezer for a package of frozen vegetables to hold to my eye. Even so, I’ve got quite a bruise. I look like a battered wife.

Brandon took us to The Tech museum of San Jose this afternoon…lots of fun things to do there. Then we went out to eat at a Chinese bistro. The lamb with cilantro was fabulous. The orange peel shrimp were good too. The sechuwan beef was SPICY. The crab won tons were delicious. The lemon scallops were mediocre, though. We got some ice cream at Ben & Jerry’s afterward.